How to make an inexpensive awning

written by Steve Hagensicker

Sticker shock

I've owned several VW's myself over the years. I currently have a 1981 camper van. After checking the prices for commercial awnings, I decided to make my own for about 1/10th the cost. (Commercial awning prices average $250, and can be much more.)

Parts required

    You'll need the following items to build the awning:

      Item Approximate
      cost (US$)
      8 x 10 foot tarp $16.00
      50 feet of 3/16" nylon rope $3.00
      2 large washers $0.50
      8-foot section of 1/4" steel rod $4.00
      2 extendable tent poles $8.00
      2 small rubber-tipped clamps
           (for Westfalia conversions)
      $6.00
      Approx. Total: $37.50

You need the clamps for Westfalia conversions, which don't have the same channel that my van has. Any small clamp will do, though you want rubber-covered tips to prevent damage to your paint. I suggest the sort that is coated with bright-orange rubber and is approximately 3 inches long.

You might wish to get a section of steel rod that is slightly less than 8 feet. A length of 7 feet and 11 inches will keep the ends of the rod covered by the tarp overhang, so that it doesn't scrape your paint. Unless you wish to deal with rust issues, you might want to hunt around (and pay extra for) stainless steel.

Update from Steve Hagensicker (2 Nov 2010)

In the article, I let the webmaster add a section of his own for those that don't have the aluminum channel to run the rod through. I'm not even sure how well that would work, especially in the wind or heavy rain. And I figure water would probably leak too.

And since the rod can only be attached at each end, there is not strength or support in the middle. I feel that steel or fiberglass would bend in the middle in wind, and possibly with a heavy rain. I'd suggest trying to make some kind of channel like my van came with so you can slide the rod in and have it held in place the entire length.

An idea just came to mind... maybe something along the line of a screen door hinge (or hinges). Something like that attached above the gutter, similar to mine, would give MUCH better strength. Get the idea?

As for rain, I do pack one extra extendable rod for the center of the awning, keeping it high in the center causing rain to run off instead gather of on top of the awning.

Assembly

  1. Remove the grommets from one end of the 8' section of tarp
  2. Fold the grometless edge over and sew it to leave a small channel from one end to the other. The channel should be large enough to allow the 1/4" rod to slide through.
  3. Cut the rope into two lengths and tie a washer in the center of each length of rope. Tie each rope end with a slip knot so that the ropes are ready to use with the tent stakes. (You need to get rid of any rough edges in the inside and outside of the washers. This will insure long rope life.)

Deployment

My bus (pictured below) has a channel running along the pop-top.

Set up the awning on busses with a channel as follows:

  1. Slide the 1/4" rod into the sewn tube in the tarp and then slide into the 8-foot channel on the sliding door side of the bus.
  2. Two poles... two ropes... 4 tent stakes and 5 to 10 minutes, it's up. (Five minutes for two people, 10 minutes for 1 person.)
  3. Relax out of the sun and rain!

Set up the awning on Westfalia busses as follows:

  1. Slide the 1/4" rod into the sewn tube in the tarp and then slide into the rain gutter above the sliding door.
  2. Clamp the rain gutter down with the two clamps, one at each end.
  3. Two poles... two ropes... 4 tent stakes and 5 to 10 minutes, it's up. (Five minutes for two people, 10 minutes for 1 person.)
  4. Relax out of the sun and rain!

Storage

Store the tarp in a bag under the seat. The poles telescope down to comfortably fit into storage compartments. The 1/4" rod rides in either the channel or the rain gutter while traveling.

If you're storing the 1/4 inch rod in the channel, give it a slight nudge when it reaches the end of the channel. The tapered end of the channel will grab hold and keep the rod firmly in place. You want it fairly tight so that it doesn't go through the back window of a vehicle ahead if you brake hard. A slight twist and pull with pliers will release it. (Make sure the rod is very secure! Better safe than sorry.)

If you're storing it in the rain gutter, make sure that it's safely clamped down! You may even wish to purchase a couple of extra clamps to secure the rod while driving.

Photos

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