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How to buy a Vanagon

 

I want a van! Where can I get one?

Well, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, Seattle, Denver, or New Mexico, you're in luck, because Vanagons are plentiful in your area. If you live in New England, the South, or Midwest, they're a little less common, and you may need to travel to find your dream van.

The best place to check is your local paper. You'll find the best deals there, sometimes from little old ladies who are selling a van they only drove once and then kept under a blanket in the garage except for periodic maintenance. Unfortunately, this method usually takes extraordinary patience. If you're like me, that doesn't work.

If you don't mind paying a little extra, go to one of the few dealers around North America that specializes in Volkswagen vans. You'll find them listed on the vanagon.com Vendors page under 'Dealers'.

If you live outside one of the hot spots for Vanagons, you might considering scouring other people's newspapers. Most newspapers are on the web today, allowing easy searches for 'the perfect van.' vanagon.com lists some of the online car search services on our links page under the heading 'Looking to buy?'.

What should I look for when purchasing a van?

The first thing to check when buying a Vanagon is the head gaskets. (This isn't a known problem with EuroVans.) You should be familiar with the head gasket problem, as described in the document 'Vanagon head gasket leaks' elsewhere on this site.

You should also use very handy 'Used Bus Buyer's Guide'. Though this document is currently oriented towards air-cooled busses, it is highly relevant.

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from Thomas F. Forhan

A recent posting on the Vanagon List asked about what to look for when considering a VW Syncro Westfalia that is for sale. The following is a first attempt at listing some areas that deserve special attention.

First, I think rust is the biggest issue. I was really surprised at the rust in wierd places on some of the early '80s Vanagons I have seen lately. Beware.

Mechanically, do all the typical Vanagon looking and poking. Chronic head gasket leaks are very evident, but to be sure, drive the van until it's warm and then park it over a clean piece of cardboard. Go back and check the cardboard fifteen minutes later. Even if all was clean, I would have a leakdown test done instead of a compression check (that would be my first choice anyway.) I understand there is a chemical that some mechanics can add to the coolant water which changes color if there is exhaust gas in the coolant. No experience with this, but it sounds good.

Of course, check to be sure everything works, including the fridge (at least on propane), stove, water sytem and pump, rear heater, etc. At least it will give you some negotiation room.

The following paragraphs apply if the Vanagon is a syncro:

Carefully check out the tires. They should all be identical, really the same brand and equal wear. On a syncro, you need to have the front and rear parts of the drivetrain turning at the exact same speed, or damage to the viscous coupling can result. Worst case would be to find different sizes front and rear. This is all detailed in the owners manual. If nothing else, as a negotiation point, I would check the GVW sticker on the doorjamb, divide by four and see it the tires rated capacity (on the sidewall) is capable of supporting the vehicle. If not, budget new tires immediately.

Driving it, listen for weird whines, electric motor sounds, which is usually a bad $4000 viscous coupling, and the various clunks, which can be any one of the 10 (!) CV-joints in syncros, including the unrebuildable ones in the $700 driveshaft. Visually inspect those CVs as well, looking for tears in the covers and leaking grease (the driveshaft CVs do not have covers)

Also, does it have a differential lock? (This is a pull knob on the lower center of the dash near the gearshift.) This was an option on the early models, standard on the later ones, and really increases the capability. If so, test the lock as follows:

1. Find a parking lot and drive it in a tight circle.
    
2. While stopped, pull the differential lock knob, and then slowly drive forward until the differential lock engages. The green light above the knob will turn on.
    
3. Drive in a tight circle again
    

With the differential lock on and functioning, you should feel a definite increase is tire 'scrubbing' as you turn. (You'll feel it when it happens!)

Is that all?

Yup, for now. This article is heavily under construction. Want to add to this article? Email coyote with your suggestions!