Oaxaca
June 2000
Martes 13 Junio 2000
Oaxaca, MexicoEn Mexico, martes decimotercero es mal suerte, no como los Estados Unis, donde es viernes decimotercero. [In Mexico, Tuesday the 13th is bad luck, not like the United States, where it is Friday the 13th.] For me, however, it was a fairly good day. I did fairly well in classes, though no one guessed the movies I was describing. I can understand them missing "El Cocinero, El Ladrón, Su Esposo, y Su Amante", but "Como Agua Para Chocolate"? Let's see if you could have figured it out from the clues:
Es una pelicula de cocina y amor. En esta pelicula, un muy bonita mujere corre en el desierto sin ropas. Estan muchos revolutionarios, y una de las hermanas es la amante de uno revolutionario. En una escena, el primero personaje cocina con las lagrímas.
It turns out that no one in class had seen the film!
I also realized today that I know enough español to ask my landlady (propietaria) if another room in the compound was available, and then ask her if it would be possible to switch. She agreed. This other room has a balcony off of the second floor bedroom, which will be very nice for a breeze at night. It also has a ceiling fan and the most incredible stone walls. I recommend this place for renting furnished apartments:
La casa de los abuelos [Grandparents' house]
Reforma 410 C.P. 68000
Centro Histórico
Oaxaca, Oax. México
+52 (951) 61982Rosa C. Arroyo Núñez, Manager
These apartments couldn't be better located. They're about a block from the magnificent Iglesia de Santo Domingo. That's a bit of a problem, as for some reason *huge* firecrackers are going off in the churchyard pretty much any time of the day or night. 6am, 11pm, anytime. Others have heard them at 3 in the morning, but I'm a heavy sleeper. I've been told by one person that this is a year-round thing, and by another that it occurs solamente en junio [only in June]. These are *big* firecrackers. Think small dynamite.
If you're not easily excitable, I heartily recommend this place. It's costing me $4000 pesos for a month, or about US$400 at today's exchange rate. The place is fully furnished, including utensils, cooking pots, a range and refrigerator (though no oven), sheets and towels.
The art on the walls is above-average.
Just down the street is a wonderful bed and breakfast. I'm not staying there, but I took a look and it's very charming. I'd definitely stay there for a romantic week in Oaxaca:
Las Bugambilias
Reforma 402 C.P. 68000
Centro, Oaxaca, Oax., México
+52 (951) 611 65
bugambilias@infosel.net.mxThere are many places around town where you can get your car washed, as well as several secure car parks that I've spotted. The majority of the vehicles parked on the street have a 'club' of some sort affixed to the steering wheel. Traffic lights definitely seem advisory, though most people seem to pay attention. Yesterday I actually saw someone getting pulled over, for going the wrong way down a one-way street.
Parked in front of my house the other way was a beautiful red-and-white split-window bus. Painted on the side were the words 'Der Doktor'. Unfortunately no one was around, so I couldn't get the story.
Ron
