Caravana Pan Americana: Bolivia northbound

Bolivia Northbound

This portion of the route was prepared by Ron Lussier. Please contact him if you have any suggestions for Bolivia.

In the words of the South American Explorer's Club:

Traveling in Bolivia can be exciting. The famous "most dangerous road in the world" clings to the cliffs between La Paz and Coroico. Traveling in Bolivia requires patience and stamina. Bring extra food and drinking water. A good sense of humor helps.

We'll be in Bolivia during the rainy season. During the rainy season roads are cut by flash floods and landslides. You can gauge the importance of a road by how quickly it is reopened. Remember that vehicles coming uphill have the right of way over all others, even at major intersections.

Travel in Bolivia is inexpensive, and travel on a $10 a day budget is possible outside La Paz. After Argentina, this should seem like quite a bargain!

Internet access is available in La Paz and other major centers. E-mail cafes are plentiful. They offer Internet connections for about 10 bolivianos (US $2) an hour. To speed things up and keep costs down, you can bring in your own diskette with your e-mail messages already typed. Service outside La Paz is slow and telephone calls via the Internet are not yet possible.

Day: Destination: Km: Comments:

22 Feb

Tarija

189

We'll cross into Bolivia from Argentina today at Villazón. From Villazón, we'll drive northeast to Tarija, a delightful small city with streets planted with flowering trees. We'll be there when the fruit is in season, and some of the best Bolivian wines are produced here.

Fossils can be found outside of the city. New bones are exposed every year after the rains come. If there is time, we may visit one of the many bodegas (wineries) in the area.

23 Feb

Camargo

182

A good stopping point on the road north from Tarija, Camargo has several places to stay. The vineyards around Camargo produce the country's best singani, a 40-proof distilled grape spirit made only in Bolivia.

24 Feb

Potosí

186

At 4,070 meters, Potosí is the highest city of it's size (pop. 110,000) in the world. We'll be chewing the coco leaves to fight off altitude sickness while exploring the city. Potosí is a colonial city, founded in 1545, and UNESCO has declared the city to be 'Patrimonio de la Humanidad.'

We'll try to stay at the Hostal Colonial, a pretty colonial house near the main plaza. The hostal features heating, which is rare but necessary in Potosí. Located on Hoyos 8 (T 24809.)

25 Feb

Potosi

A second day in Potosí to enjoy the city and adapt to the altitude. One of the interesting things to do today is to take a tour of the silver mines. From the South American Handbook: "A 4 1/2 hrs morning tour to the mines involves meeting miners and seeing them at work in medieval conditions. [...] Guided tours are offered by former miners, who provide essential equipment -- helmet, lamp, and usually protective clothing (but check when booking.) [...] The price of tours is US$10 pp and includes transport."

Later, the SAM says "A good place to freshen up after visiting the mines (or to spend a day relaxing) is Tarapaya [23 km out of town], where there are thermal baths. On the other side of the river from Tarapaya is a 50m diameter crater lake, whose temperature is 30°C, a beautiful spot; take sun protection."

26 Feb

Sucre

164

Technically the capital of Bolivia but really a sleepy university town, Sucre has a fresh and comfortable climate, lovely colonial streets, and a variety of hotels and restaurants. A mecca for those interested in archaeology, paleontology, and woven handicrafts. Several good museums. Many pleasant day hikes. Also, condor nesting sites.

27 Feb

Totora

233

Heading north on Ruta 5, we'll take a combination of dirt (32 km) and ripio (gravel) road to this beautiful, unspoiled colonial village where we'll spend the night.

28 Feb

Cochabamba

143

Today we'll join the mountain road between Santa Cruz de la Sierra and Cochabamba. The 500 km road is paved, though most traffic takes the newer lowland route.

Cochabamba is Bolivia's fourth largest city (pop. 600,000.) With a comfortably warm spring-like climate, Cochabamba is a modern city with very little colonial architecture except in the Center.

We'll probably try to stay at the Boston hotel at C 25 de Mayo 0167 (T 28530) which offers quiet rooms and safe parking.

1 Mar

Caracollo

196

Actually, we'll stop for the night at a comfortable point somewhere between Cochabamba and La Paz on Ruta 4 / 1. Ideally this should be after Caracollo, where Ruta 4 ends and Ruta 1 heads north towards La Paz.

2 Mar

La Paz

193

Set deep in the Rio La Paz valley at 3000-4000m, La Paz is Bolivia's largest city and the highest capital in the world. El Prado (also known as Avenue 16 de Julio), the main street, is lined with restaurants, hotels, and tour companies.

We may stay at the Eldorado on Avenue Villazón (T 363355.) There is secure parking nearby.

3 Mar

Coroico

100

Today those of us who wish to attempt the drive will go to Coroico today along the Yungas Road. The so-called 'most dangerous road in the world' ascends from La Paz to La Cumbre barely wide enough for one vehicle with sheer 1000m drops, waterfalls across the road, and hulking rock overhangs. At the Chucura Pass, the road reaches 4859m.

Coroico sits at 1750m, and is a good place to enjoy the panoramic view and simply relax. We'll find a nice hotel to stay at while we're here. The local 5-star hotel is the Viejo Molino, where standard rooms go for US$35-50 per night.

4 Mar

Coroico

Today we'll spend a second night in Coroico, relaxing and enjoying local hiking opportunities.

5 Mar

Copacabana

264

Today we'll head down from the mountains, through La Paz, and towards the straits of Tiquina, where we'll catch a ferry to Copacabana. There are several excellent camping spots in town. The field opposite the beach is supposed to be both private and comfortable. Another recommended site is the high point of the Inca road towards Yunguyo Peru, 1km from the end of Calle Murillo.

The local speciality is trucha criolla, or salmon trout, which one guidebook calls the world's largest and most delicious trout.

6 Mar

Today we cross into Peru.

Total kilometers:

1850

A lock indicates that this date and portion of the itinerary
is considered least likely to change.