Panama Northbound

Road rules: Cars don't stop at intersections. You
must wear seat belts. No right turn on red unless expressly permitted.
Speed limits on major roads are 80kph, and 60kph on secondary roads.
If oncoming traffic is flashing their headlights, there may be trouble
ahead. Cars don't stop (or slow) for pedestrians. If you flatten a chicken,
you'll be expected to pay the owner US$4.
This portion of the route is being prepared by Ron
Lussier. Please contact him if you have any suggestions for Panama.
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Apr 13
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Panama City /
Colón
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This is the target to have the vans arrive from
Guayaquil, Ecuador. We'll fly to Panama City and then meet the
vans in Colón, 76 km across the isthmus.
While waiting, we can take a tour of the locks.
The leading tour company is Argo Tours (T228-6069), which offers
partial canal transits on Saturday mornings. If we're not there
on a Saturday morning, we can still visit the Miraflores locks,
8km from Panama City. A viewing platform allows you to see the
locks in operation.
On the night we get our vans, we'll camp out in
the Parque Nacional Soberania, 25km from Panama City. This park
consists of very-accessible tropical rainforest. Permission must
be obtained at park headquarters. Alternately, we may be able
to camp at the one of the yacht harbors located at either end
of the canal.
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Apr 14
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El Valle
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123
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Heading out of Panama City, we'll turn southwest
along the peninsula on the Panamericana. Just past the towns of
San Carlos and Las Uvas, we'll turn inland and climb to this picturesque
small town. Built in the crater of an extinct volcano, El Valle
is surrounded by rainforest and jagged peaks.
While in town, we'll take the 'Canopy
Adventure '.
Hanging from a series of cables dozens of meters up in the rainforest
canopy, swinging from tree to tree through orchids, songbirds,
and vines, this is the best way to experience a sloth's viewpoint
of the forest.
We'll try to stay at the Cabañas Potosi
(T983-6181, T231-3811 in Panama City), about 1.5km west of town
on Calle La Reforma. About $33 a night for cabins, and camping
may be available.
If we have any extra days, I think it would be
nice to spend one here.
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Apr 15
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Penonomé
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91
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Driving back down to the Panamericana, we'll continue
southwest. In 17km, we'll come to the small town of Santa Clara.
1km further on is Farallón, where a wide, paved path stretches
out in both directions from the road. This was the primary military
runway used by General Manuel Noriega's forces. Further on is
Río Hato, where abandoned bunkhouses, riddled with bullets,
housed 9,000 of the general's forces.
We'll try to find a campground in the vicinity
of Penonomé. If we're feeling flush, we could stay at the
Posada del Cerro La Vieja (T983-8088, T223-4553 in Panama). This
resort inn is located on a summit with views of peaks resembling
the karst 'haystacks' of Guilin, China. The package price for
one person, with room, 4 meals, a waterfall tour, and a mud bath
is about $50.
Penonomé is the place to buy Panama
hats.
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Apr 16
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Playa Las Lajas
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225
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Today we'll continue westward through the city
of Santiago on the Panamericana. A couple of kilometers west of
the hamlet of Tolé is one of the most famous restaurants
in western Panama, the Kiosco Bar Criollo on the southern side
of the highway. It's open 24 hours.
5km past Tolé is a northward turnoff to
the village of El Nancito. When you reach the 'Cantina Oriente'
sign, you turn west and drive 75m to a bunch of boulders with
mysterious carvings. This should be an interesting sidetrip.
We'll turn off the highway at Las Lajas. Playa
Las Lajas is 13km south of the Panamericana and is a broad white-sand
beach lined with palms. The waves are perfect for body surfing.
We'll stay at the Las Lajas Beach Resort, but don't get too excited
about the term 'Resort'. The resort consists of 6 bamboo cabañas,
a stone's throw from the beach.
About an hour's drive north of the Panamericana
is the world's largest open-pit copper mine, but they weren't
offering tours at the time my guidebook was written.
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Apr 17
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Parque Internacional La Amistad
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200
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Leaving the beach, we'll head westwards on the
Panamericana to the city of David. After fueling, we'll continue
west to Concepción, and then drive north, off the Panamericana,
climbing Volcán Barú as we go. Concepción
is at 1200m, and we'll pass through Volcán (1500m), Bambito
(1600m), and Cerro Punta (1950m). The beautiful Quetzal is often
seen along the road. Cerro Punta has a very European look because
a swiss colony is located here.
In the center of Cerro Punta is the Hotel Los
Quetzales (T771-2182). This hotel also operates some chalets
in the park (Cabañas Los Quetzales), one of which
should hold our entire group. The chalets are famous all over
Panama for their beauty and setting deep in the rainforest. Each
goes for $100 / night, and we should try to get one. Only 4WD
vehicles can get to the chalets, but the rate includes transportation
from Cerro Punta as well as trail guides, horses, ponchos, and
boots. We should call ahead for reservations. Camping is also
available in the park.
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Apr 18
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Parque Internacional La Amistad
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Time permitting, we'll spend an extra day here.
About 1km above the Cabañas Los Quetzales
is the Finca Dracula Orchid Sanctuary, one of Latin America's
finest orchid collections. Tours are available by appointment
(T771-2070) and are let by a prominent Australian orchidologist.
A donation of US$5 is appreciated.
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Apr 19
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San Vito,
Costa Rica
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100
to
border
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Today we cross into Costa Rica at the border town
of Paso Canoas. See the Costa
Rica route for a more complete description of today's driving.
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Total kilometers:
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739
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A lock indicates that this date and portion of the itinerary
is considered least likely to change.
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