our route to tierra del fuego and back

Panama Northbound

    Road rules: Cars don't stop at intersections. You must wear seat belts. No right turn on red unless expressly permitted. Speed limits on major roads are 80kph, and 60kph on secondary roads. If oncoming traffic is flashing their headlights, there may be trouble ahead. Cars don't stop (or slow) for pedestrians. If you flatten a chicken, you'll be expected to pay the owner US$4.

    This portion of the route is being prepared by Ron Lussier. Please contact him if you have any suggestions for Panama.

    Day:
    Destination: Km: Comments:

    Apr 13

    Panama City /
    Colón

     

    This is the target to have the vans arrive from Guayaquil, Ecuador. We'll fly to Panama City and then meet the vans in Colón, 76 km across the isthmus.

    While waiting, we can take a tour of the locks. The leading tour company is Argo Tours (T228-6069), which offers partial canal transits on Saturday mornings. If we're not there on a Saturday morning, we can still visit the Miraflores locks, 8km from Panama City. A viewing platform allows you to see the locks in operation.

    On the night we get our vans, we'll camp out in the Parque Nacional Soberania, 25km from Panama City. This park consists of very-accessible tropical rainforest. Permission must be obtained at park headquarters. Alternately, we may be able to camp at the one of the yacht harbors located at either end of the canal.

    Apr 14

    El Valle

    123

    Heading out of Panama City, we'll turn southwest along the peninsula on the Panamericana. Just past the towns of San Carlos and Las Uvas, we'll turn inland and climb to this picturesque small town. Built in the crater of an extinct volcano, El Valle is surrounded by rainforest and jagged peaks.

    While in town, we'll take the 'Canopy Adventurethis link leaves vanagon.com'. Hanging from a series of cables dozens of meters up in the rainforest canopy, swinging from tree to tree through orchids, songbirds, and vines, this is the best way to experience a sloth's viewpoint of the forest.

    We'll try to stay at the Cabañas Potosi (T983-6181, T231-3811 in Panama City), about 1.5km west of town on Calle La Reforma. About $33 a night for cabins, and camping may be available.

    If we have any extra days, I think it would be nice to spend one here.

    Apr 15

    Penonomé

    91

    Driving back down to the Panamericana, we'll continue southwest. In 17km, we'll come to the small town of Santa Clara. 1km further on is Farallón, where a wide, paved path stretches out in both directions from the road. This was the primary military runway used by General Manuel Noriega's forces. Further on is Río Hato, where abandoned bunkhouses, riddled with bullets, housed 9,000 of the general's forces.

    We'll try to find a campground in the vicinity of Penonomé. If we're feeling flush, we could stay at the Posada del Cerro La Vieja (T983-8088, T223-4553 in Panama). This resort inn is located on a summit with views of peaks resembling the karst 'haystacks' of Guilin, China. The package price for one person, with room, 4 meals, a waterfall tour, and a mud bath is about $50.

    Penonomé is the place to buy Panama hats.

    Apr 16

    Playa Las Lajas

    225

    Today we'll continue westward through the city of Santiago on the Panamericana. A couple of kilometers west of the hamlet of Tolé is one of the most famous restaurants in western Panama, the Kiosco Bar Criollo on the southern side of the highway. It's open 24 hours.

    5km past Tolé is a northward turnoff to the village of El Nancito. When you reach the 'Cantina Oriente' sign, you turn west and drive 75m to a bunch of boulders with mysterious carvings. This should be an interesting sidetrip.

    We'll turn off the highway at Las Lajas. Playa Las Lajas is 13km south of the Panamericana and is a broad white-sand beach lined with palms. The waves are perfect for body surfing. We'll stay at the Las Lajas Beach Resort, but don't get too excited about the term 'Resort'. The resort consists of 6 bamboo cabañas, a stone's throw from the beach.

    About an hour's drive north of the Panamericana is the world's largest open-pit copper mine, but they weren't offering tours at the time my guidebook was written.

    Apr 17

    Parque Internacional La Amistad

    200

    Leaving the beach, we'll head westwards on the Panamericana to the city of David. After fueling, we'll continue west to Concepción, and then drive north, off the Panamericana, climbing Volcán Barú as we go. Concepción is at 1200m, and we'll pass through Volcán (1500m), Bambito (1600m), and Cerro Punta (1950m). The beautiful Quetzal is often seen along the road. Cerro Punta has a very European look because a swiss colony is located here.

    In the center of Cerro Punta is the Hotel Los Quetzales (T771-2182). This hotel also operates some chalets in the park (Cabañas Los Quetzales), one of which should hold our entire group. The chalets are famous all over Panama for their beauty and setting deep in the rainforest. Each goes for $100 / night, and we should try to get one. Only 4WD vehicles can get to the chalets, but the rate includes transportation from Cerro Punta as well as trail guides, horses, ponchos, and boots. We should call ahead for reservations. Camping is also available in the park.

    Apr 18

    Parque Internacional La Amistad

     

    Time permitting, we'll spend an extra day here.

    About 1km above the Cabañas Los Quetzales is the Finca Dracula Orchid Sanctuary, one of Latin America's finest orchid collections. Tours are available by appointment (T771-2070) and are let by a prominent Australian orchidologist. A donation of US$5 is appreciated.

    Apr 19

    San Vito,
    Costa Rica

    100
    to
    border

    Today we cross into Costa Rica at the border town of Paso Canoas. See the Costa Rica route for a more complete description of today's driving.

    Total kilometers:

    739

     

    A lock indicates that this date and portion of the itinerary
    is considered least likely to change.