Note:

This trip happened in 2000. It's long over, but the pages are being kept here as a reference for future travelers.

 

our route to tierra del fuego and back

Peru Northbound

    This portion of the route is being prepared by Ron Lussier . Please contact him if you have any suggestions for Peru.

    Day:
    Destination: Km: Comments:

    6 Mar

    Puno

    146

    Today we cross into Peru at Yunguyo, 14km from Copacabana, and then continue on 2 hours to Puno. Puno is located on the west short of Lago Titicaca and the folklore center of Peru.

    Tonight we'll drink aboard the Yavari, the oldest ship on Lago Titicaca. The ship was built in England in 1862, shipped to Arica in kit form, then by rail to Tacna and mule to the lake. It took 6 years, and the ship launched on Christmas 1870.

    We'll try to stay at the hotel Libertador Isla Esteves (T 367780), located on an island linked by causeway to the mainland 5km northeast of Puno. A taxi into Puno costs approximately US$3.

    7 Mar

    Ayaviri

    140

    We'll stay overnight in one of the 3 hotels in this little town to cut the stretch to Cuzco. Traveling at this altitude has to be done in a way we can acclimatize to the environmental conditions.

    8-9 Mar

    Cuzco

    249

    Today we complete the drive to Cuzco, in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. We'll spend two days in Cuzco. We'll probably stay in a hotel for security and comfort. Some possibilities for places to stay are:

    • Hostal Las Marqueses (23-2512) on Calle Garcilaso 252, $18-$25.

    • Hostal Loreto (22-6352) on Loreto 115, $16-$22.

    10-12 Mar

    Machu Picchu

    100

    Today we'll climb northwest to Machu Picchuthis link leaves vanagon.com, located at 2360 meters. Travellers can stay in a campground by a river, about 200m from the train station and 6km from the ruins, or they can stay at the Hotel Machu Picchu (21-1038 or 21-1052) at $200 / night. If you wish to stay at the hotel, it's best to make reservations in advance.

    Because of the importance and scope of this site, we'll spend over two full days here.

    13 Mar

    Cuzco

    100

    Today we'll return to Cuzco for a last visit to this city.

    14 Mar

    Abancay

    198

    Located at the top of a glacial valley, this town is supposed to be a fairly pleasant stop on the route from Cuzco to Nazca. Today's trip will include an ascent to a mountain pass and a subsequent descent, as well as numerous scenic spots. In Abancay, we'll stop at the Hotel de Turismo Abancay on Avenida Díaz Barcenas 500 (T 084-321017.) They allow camping and supposedly have a secure car park.

    15 Mar

    Abra Huashuaccasa

    217

    Today we'll continue towards Nazca, crossing the 4,300m Abra Huashuaccasa pass. We'll camp alongside the road sometime after the pass. We'll be in desolate countrythis link leaves vanagon.com, so we'll need water.

    16 Mar

    Nazca

    244

    Today we'll arrive in Nazca, set in a green valley at 619m. Overlooking the town is Cerro Blanco, at 2,078m the highest sand dune in the world. It's popular for sandboarding!

    17 Mar

    Nazca

     

    A second day in Nazca will allow us to visit the famous Nazca linesthis link leaves vanagon.com and stroll through the small town and nearby archaological sites.

    18 Mar

    Pisco

    215

    Leaving Nazca, we'll drive north to this seaside city and try to stay at the nearby Parcas National Reserve. About 15km from Pisco, this reserve features birds and sea lions. We'll try to stay at El Mirador (at the turn-off to El Chaco), which has meals, hot water, and can arrange boat trips.

    19-20 Mar

    Lima

    220

    Continuing north we'll come to the capital (and largest city.) We'll spend two days here to allow any necessary maintenance to be performed on vehicles. We'll try to find a low-priced hostel in the Miraflores suburb of Lima (which is safer), preferably with parking. One possibility is the Hospedaje Atahualpa on Atahualpa 646c (T4476601.)

    South American Explorersthis link leaves vanagon.com members can stop by the clubhouse at Avenida Portugal 146, Brena Casilla 3714.

    21 Mar

    Barranca

    205

    This small town is a popular stop on the Panamericana, and provides good facilities for travellers. We'll stay at the Hotel Chavín (T034-35-2358) and dance the night away at the Disco Pub 'No Nerds'.

    22 Mar

    Huaraz

    208

    Today we'll continue north on the Panamericana to just north of Pativilca, where we will turn inland. The road climbs to a chilly pass at 4,080m (km 120). The road then crosses a high plateau before dropping to the Callejón de Huaylas, a valley of picturesque villages surrounded by high glaciated peaks.

    We'll stop for the night at Huarez, the heart of the valley. This town was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in May of 1970.

    We'll try to stay at the Hostal Colomba on Francisco de Zela 210 (T721241) run by a German family and offering safe car parking.

    The Huascaran National Reserve in Huaraz is the best place to see puyasthis link leaves vanagon.com, the world's largest bromeliad. In Pachacoto, 20km before Catac, go towards La Union. About 20km along this road you will see the first puyas on the right.

    23 Mar

    Chimbote

    290

    Today we'll head down from the mountains via a road which follows the path of the old Santa Corporation Railway. This road goes through the narrow and spectacular Cañón del Pato and then winds down through the Santa Valley, passing through over 40 tunnels. Tonight we'll try to find 'wild' camping somewhere north of Chimbote.

    24 Mar

    Huanchaco

    141

    Heading north again along the Panamericana, we'll stop in the small fishing village of Huanchacothis link leaves vanagon.com, just north of Trujillo. This village is famous for its narrow pointed fishing rafts, known as caballitos de totora, made of tortora reeds, and ridden somewhat like surfboards. It's possible to rent one of these and go for a ride. The SAH warns you to wear lots of sunblock! We'll try to stay at the Caballito de Totora, which has parking and a pool (caballito@trujillovirtual.com, T461004). See this descriptionthis link leaves vanagon.com of the place on the South American Explorers site.

    25 Mar

    Chiclayo

    182

    Today's short drive brings us to this capital of the Lambayeque department. On the way north we may make a side-trip to the ghost-town of Saña, containing the ruins of 5 churches and a convent. The town was ruined by floods in 1726 and raided by pirates on several occasions.

    Chiclayo is surrounded by several archaological sites. See the South American Handbook for a description. The SAH writes that it is difficult to find decent cheap accomodation in Chiclayo... we may try to camp in a farmer's field outside of town.

    26 Mar

    Piura

    211

    Continuing north along the Panamericana, we'll come to this city founded by the Spanish in 1532. This is the oldest colonial city in Peru. We'll try to stay at the Hostal San Jorge, Jr Loreto 960 (T327514), about US$12-16 per room including hot water.

    27 Mar

    Catacocha

    254

    Today we'll head north to Sullana and then head northeast through the towns of El Papayo, Las Lomas, and Suyo before crossing into Ecuador via the more scenic route through Macará. We'll stop for the night in Catacocha, a spectacularly-placed town built on a rock with pre-Inca ruins all around the town. Local inns cost about US$3, and the Guayaquil is supposed to be good.

    Total kilometers:

    3320

     

    A lock indicates that this date and portion of the itinerary
    is considered least likely to change.

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